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Patrick’s Perfumes: oud – the love it or hate it fragrance

26/6/2023

Translation: Katherine Martin

Perfumes are works of art, perfumers are artists and I’m a collector of their creations. Today, I’m homing in on oud. Tom Ford, Parfums de Marly and Nasomatto each interpret this classic scent in their very own way.

I was recently invited to the launch event of a new agency. It was a classic drinks reception scenario involving a glass of wine in one hand and a plate of appetisers in the other. Add to that some conversations – some interesting, some not so interesting. Then, all of a sudden, the scent of oud hit my nostrils. The kind that’s often described as animalic or even «skanky». Amidst all the small talk, I spent the rest of the evening trying to track down the wearer of the sweetly seductive scent. To no avail. Which is too bad, as I’d like to have found out what perfume it was. I had a hunch, but I’ll get to that in a moment.

The wood of the aquilaria tree, also known as eaglewood or agarwood.
Source: Shutterstock

Pricier than gold

A lot of people really dislike this intense scent. I, however, am a big fan of oud. The oil comes from the wood of the aquilaria tree, which mainly grows in the forests of Southeast Asia. If it’s infected by a special fungus, its immune system produces the most expensive tree resin in the world. Depending on the quality, the oil produced from this resin can be more expensive than gold.

The fragrance is intense and, fittingly, controversial: you either like it or you don’t. Nothing in between. In spite of this, oud has become a bestseller in recent years – even in the West. The fragrances smell animalic and sexy (or so my fellow oud fans would say, anyway) and have a warm, woody note. They’re best applied to the Adam’s apple. The vibration caused by speaking creates heat, which makes the fragrance more intense.

Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford

Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford is a challenge for the nose. I wear the now-discontinued Intense version, and think it’s a brilliant spin on oud. At the drinks reception I mentioned earlier, I was convinced I’d got a whiff of it. To people who don’t like oud, the scent might smell like poo. This is perfectly possible given that the oud used in this particular perfume is fermented with oxygen. This aerobic processing method creates sulphur-oxidising bacteria that give the oil this note.

Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford is definitely skanky. If that’s your bag, you’ll love this fragrance. Besides the oud, whisky and tobacco are its two dominant notes.

Layton Exclusif by Parfums de Marly

Of the three oud fragrances showcased here, Parfums de Marly has come up with the freshest concoction – Layton Exclusif. The top notes are dominated by bergamot, mandarin, aquatic notes and grapefruit before the oud can come to the fore. Slightly skanky, if skankiness can even be slight. However, it’s gentler and, therefore, more suitable for the masses than Tom Ford’s Tobacoo Oud.

Compared to Layton, however, the Exlusif variety is more for experienced noses. It’s essentially the big brother of the fragrances, who’s not there to please for just any price. And that’s exactly what makes Layton Exclusif so interesting.

Pardon by Nasomatto

Alessandro Gualtieri is the nose behind Pardon. The Italian is probably one of the most creative minds in the industry right now. In addition to Nasomatto, he runs a second brand, Orto Parisi. His fragrances are often challenging and miles apart from the mainstream.

In Pardon, Gulatieri interprets oud in a classic Italian way. There’s nothing animalic about it – quite the opposite, in fact. This fragrance is as elegant as a tailor-made suit from Milan. The oil in it is processed without oxygen, i.e. anaerobically. Besides oud, which pulls the strings in the background, magnolia and chocolate take centre stage. It’s one of my all-time favourite fragrances.

My name is Patrick. Patrick Bardelli. Not Süskind, the author of the book Perfume. Nevertheless, I’m also a great lover of perfumes and I regularly write about good and bad fragrances. Want to enjoy my literary odour? Follow my author profile. Or let’s say: follow your nose. And remember: all I’m doing here is giving my subjective opinion.

Header image: Patrick Bardelli

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Patrick Bardelli

Senior Editor

Patrick.Bardelli@digitecgalaxus.ch

From radio journalist to product tester and storyteller, jogger to gravel bike novice and fitness enthusiast with barbells and dumbbells. I'm excited to see where the journey'll take me next.

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