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How to give your MX Master that certain click

17/1/2026

Translation: Patrik Stainbrook

Yes, the MX Master might be the best office mouse, but don’t you miss that clicking sound on newer models? Me too. Luckily, all you need to get there is a screwdriver and a soldering iron.

I’ve used the MX Master since 2018. Starting with the 2S, I’ve grown to love this peripheral. Although Logitech intended the 3S as an improvement, it actually made things worse: dampened switches may improve the mood of noise-sensitive colleagues in open-plan offices, but I can’t stand them. I just miss that characteristic clicking noise – and when working from home, I can click away without fear.

Logitech has again relied on dampened switches for its newest version, the MX Master 4. Fine, I’ll fix it myself. Armed with a screwdriver and soldering iron, I replace the ugly little things. I’ll show you how you can do the same.

The old, dampened switches from my MX Master 4.

The switches

First of all, you’ll need new switches. Logitech uses switches measuring 6 × 6 × 7.3 millimetres in the MX Master 4. As far as I can tell, it’s the same for all previous models. Throughout my research, I could only find dampened models in these dimensions. But as stated in this Reddit post on the MX Master 3S, long switches used in gaming mice should fit too. Since I like the models mentioned in the Reddit post, I order them from overseas: Kailong Purple Gold. At 100 million clicks, they have a particularly long service life.

The new switches are both clicky and look nicer.

As I realise later, this is a mistake. For the left mouse button on the MX Master 4, you have to rely on switches in the original dimensions. Otherwise, you’ll have to tinker way longer. You can find out why in the section titled «Now about those long switches».

Opening the mouse

Accessing the inside of the MX Master 4 is easy. First, loosen six Phillips screws on the underside of the mouse. You’ll discover five of them at first glance. The sixth one is located in an indentation at the back.

You’ll need to loosen six screws on the bottom.

Once the screws have been loosened, the mouse will open at the back. It’s trickier at the front, since the upper and lower sections are wedged together on the left and right. You’ll have to pull the top back slightly, then upwards. It’s best to do this first on the side of the right mouse button, then on the left. You can see me doing this in the video below.

Removing the switches

Once the mouse is open, take a moment to study the inner workings. Then turn your attention to the upper part of the housing. There, you’ll find the switches mounted on two small circuit boards, each of them connected to the housing with two screws.

The tip of my screwdriver’s touching the circuit board for the left mouse button. To the right of it, there’s the circuit board for the right button.

Before loosening the screws, you should desolder the switches. To remove them, you’ll need a soldering device and a desoldering pump, or a desoldering station. Hopefully you know how to use your soldering device. You can see me using my desoldering pump in the video below.

How to fit the new switches

Once the solder has been removed from the old switches, loosen the screws on the circuit boards and remove the old switches. Now all you have to do is plug in the new switches and solder them. Since I’m using longer switches, I have to disconnect a pin too. Long mouse switches have three pins, square ones only two. If you go for longer ones too, you can check the following picture for which pin to disconnect.

You can spot the pressure point at the top, slightly to the left. You’ll have to cut off the pin furthest away from it, the one I’m holding with my side cutter.

If the switches already stay in place without solder, it’s best to remount the circuit boards before soldering. This way, they won’t slip. I’m not so lucky, and have to use a third hand.

Now about those long switches

When trying to refit the circuit board for my left mouse button, I’m stumped: the switch won’t fit into the recess provided for it. It bumps against a plastic pillar behind it. The bit I need to screw my circuit board in place, of all things. Damn it.

What now? Desolder the switches again and find shorter ones? I opt for a radical method and reach for my side cutter. With it, I remove that plastic pillar from my MX Master 4. One screw should be enough to keep everything in place. Spoiler alert: it is.

The plastic pillar you’ll need to cut off is located below the switch in this picture. As you can see from the groove, I already started removing it with a side cutter.

How to reassemble your mouse

Once the circuit boards have been fitted, you’ll have to reassemble the mouse. To do so, place the upper section on top of the lower bit and make sure both sections are flush at the back and sides. Then you’ll have to press the front together firmly until the mechanism closes. You’ll hear a click when it engages. And to finish, put the six screws back in. That’s it. You’ll now hear your clicks – a true eargasm.

I love my new clicky MX Master 4. If you too miss that clicking sound on your mouse, I can recommend this mod. However, always remember that this operation will void your mouse’s warranty.

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Kevin Hofer

Senior Editor

kevin.hofer@digitecgalaxus.ch

From big data to big brother, Cyborgs to Sci-Fi. All aspects of technology and society fascinate me.

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